How To Fix Car Electrical System

A Handy Guide to Troubleshooting Common Car Electrical

To solve a car’s electrical problems, all you need is a fundamental understanding of the Ohm’s law and a detailed diagram of its electrical circuitry. The circuit serves as the control and powering mechanism for all its working systems. Using a voltmeter and by checking for continuity, you can solve most of the problems. WheelzineFixing electrical problems is a skill that every car owner must possess. You need not run to the mechanic for minor issues. It is a simple and straightforward job. Go through this quick primer on solving electrical problems in your automobile, to get an overview of the procedure.



Fixing electrical problems is a skill that every car owner must possess. You need not run to the mechanic for minor issues. It is a simple and straightforward job. Go through this quick primer on solving electrical problems in your automobile, to get an overview of the procedure.

The average life of any automobile battery is three to seven years. It makes sense to replace it after 4 years of service, to maintain optimum efficiency.To solve a car’s electrical problems, all you need is a fundamental understanding of the Ohm’s law and a detailed diagram of its electrical circuitry. The circuit serves as the control and powering mechanism for all its working systems. Using a voltmeter and by checking for continuity, you can solve most of the problems. Almost every system in a car needs an impetus through the current supplied by the battery, making it the prime mover of sorts. The battery’s depleted charge level is constantly replenished by the alternator. Ergo, any problem with the power system can be traced to the battery, alternator, or its connecting mechanism.

Would you like to write for us? Well, we're looking for good writers who want to spread the word. Get in touch with us and we'll talk Let's Work Together!Here are some of the signs that indicate a probable electrical system issue with a car.In most of these cases, the problem lies with the battery or the alternator.The typical voltage range in a car’s electric circuitry is around 10 V to 16 V. Therefore, experiencing an electric shock is an unlikely scenario unless you are tampering with the ignition assembly or the battery system of a hybrid car.

Refer circuit diagram of the electric assembly before disconnecting any wires or making new connections. Check and keep track of the colors of the wires and keep in mind, which one goes where. Disconnect the battery when replacing or removing any electrical components. This eliminates the risk of any components being inadvertently shorted and the PCM (Power train Control Module) getting damaged.

The diagnostic tools needed for troubleshooting are an ohmmeter to measure resistance and a voltmeter with attached leads (or a multimeter that serves both these functions), besides a discerning intellect. You may also use a 12 volt light tester for a quick check but it’s better to have a voltmeter or a multimeter to get accurate readings.

The principle for diagnosing an electric problem is the Ohm’s law (V = IR). Voltage is directly proportional to current, for a solid conductor and the proportionality constant is the resistance of the circuit.

Remember that every device needs electric power for its functioning and there is a minimum threshold voltage, that is absolutely necessary for its operation. Ergo, the diagnostic method is simply measuring the voltages at various load points of the car.

Load points are contact points, where power is supplied to a load, which could be the car light bulb, the windshield wiper, the ignition assembly, or any other working car part, which has problems. Therefore, if the voltage levels at any of these points are abnormal, it is definitely indicative of an underlying problem. Thus, most electrical problems are essentially low voltage, ‘no voltage’, excess resistance, or circuit discontinuity problems. In some cases, the culprits might also be some burned out components.

Would you like to write for us? Well, we're looking for good writers who want to spread the word. Get in touch with us and we'll talk Let's Work Together!The first place to check for electrical problems is the car battery. If the battery itself is not providing the required output voltage, then every component associated with it, has issues. So to check the battery output first, disconnect it from the car connections. The PCM may get reset and lose its programmed settings, when the battery power is disconnected. So attach a 9 V battery to the PCM, to avoid this.

Then, measure the voltages between the output leads of the battery. If the voltage reading is equal to or in excess of 12.43 V, your battery is charged sufficiently enough and is working. If the voltage is around 12.66 volts, your battery is fully charged and you have no reason to worry. If it is less than 12.43 V, the battery needs charging. If the battery happens to be older than four years, it is best to get it replaced, as it might already have crossed its peak-functioning lifespan.

If the battery voltage levels are fine, the problem might be with the alternator. To check whether this is indeed the case, arm yourself with a voltmeter and connect its leads to the alternator output terminals.

Now start the car and make raise the RPM levels of the engine. Observe the alternator voltage output reading. It should be in the range of 13 V to more than 14 V. If the engine is functioning around 2000 RPM or more, the alternator is fine. However, if the voltage level has plunged well below 13 V, it is most likely that the alternator has a problem. Get the device checked for a loose belt or any other kind of mechanical malfunctioning, that it may have suffered. It is best to get it replaced, to be on the safer side.

Next, reconnect the battery and check the voltage at load points of the devices, which are not working properly. If the voltage is zero or very low at a particular point, there are many possible case scenarios. One possibility is that the fuse that protects the device has burned out or secondly, the relay that switches power to that part has stopped working. Check and replace these, if you find them to be faulty.

Next, check the grounding at that point. The car circuitry is grounded in its metal body itself. If the grounding is at fault, current conduction is not possible. If that is the problem, then fix it by grounding the terminal from that point.

If the fuses are in place, grounding is sound, and the relays are working properly, then a third reason for the low or zero voltage could be corroded wires or wires with discontinuities. Checking for corroded wires can be done by checking the voltage drop across them. If the voltage difference between two connected points of the wire shows a voltage drop of more than 0.1 V, there is a problem. You must replace it. The method for checking continuity is to measure the resistance between the points, connected by the wire, using an ohmmeter. If it’s infinite, the wire has broken inside and must be replaced.

If neither the fuses, relays, or wires show a problem and the devices are not working, then you can safely conclude that there is problem with the end device. Water exposure of an electric circuit can lead to such shorting of devices. Water seepage into windshield wiper circuitry or other circuitry is common during the rainy season.

Studying the wiring diagram carefully will help you figure out complex electrical issues. Performing a periodic check of the car’s electrical installations in this way, prevents any future problems that may crop up. Changing, replacing components, and engaging in full-scale car repair could be a job, best left to a mechanic but understanding and diagnosing the problem on your own, is easily possible.

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Car Electrical Repair: How to Pay for Expenses | LendingTree

Car electrical repair costs vary wildly, depending on factors such as the type of car you drive, its age, and where you get service. This table shows a range of prices for common electrical system repairs at a dealership’s repair shop. Home RefinanceHome PurchasePersonal LoansCredit CardsHome EquityAuto LoansBusiness LoansStudent LoansDebt ReliefInsuranceCredit RepairBanking ProductsCredit/Debt AnalyzerSign up for FreeLog in1-800-813-4620Rachel MoreyRachel Morey is a finance writer and corporate journalist specializing in loans, automotive financing, debt management, and insurance. She has written for a number of finance websites over the past decade, including Lending Tree,

Owning and maintaining a vehicle can be expensive. When your car’s electrical system acts up, it’s important to get a diagnosis from a qualified mechanic right away. Doing so could save you from being stranded or from having to pay for more extensive and expensive automotive repairs.

Your vehicle’s electrical system is responsible for starting your car, powering the lights, and running various other crucial systems. Problems with your battery, ignition system, wiring or grounding require help from a professional to properly diagnose and fix.

Here are some of the warning signs that your vehicle’s electrical system requires immediate attention: This is not an exhaustive list. Cars show different symptoms of electrical problems depending on their model and age. If your vehicle seems to have an electrical problem, don’t hesitate to get it inspected by a mechanic right away. Waiting could lead to dangerous driving situations or cause further damage to your car’s major systems.

Car electrical repair costs vary wildly, depending on factors such as the type of car you drive, its age, and where you get service. This table shows a range of prices for common electrical system repairs at a dealership’s repair shop.

The price you pay for labor and parts may be lower if you find the right mechanic and they are not affiliated with a car dealership. If you know the specific repairs your car needs, be sure to call several shops to get different quotes.

If your vehicle is under warranty, you may be required to have any diagnostic services and repairs that will be completed at select repair shops, free of charge. Always check your warranty before paying for vehicle repairs.

The following cost estimates are from a mobile auto repair service. But, again, your actual costs are likely to vary.Electrical system repairs can take a toll on your bank account. If you need help paying for repairs to your car’s electrical system but don’t have the money right now, you have a few options for financing the bill.

If you have a bank account or credit union account with a stable history and direct deposit of your paycheck, you may qualify for a payday alternative loan (PAL). The National Credit Union Administration (NCUA) permits federal credit unions to grant PALs to members who have had an account there for at least one month.

Terms of a PAL are dependent on your credit union or bank’s policies, so it’s crucial to check with them to understand your options. The NCUA allows credit unions to charge up to $20 to apply for a PAL. The amount of the loan, if approved, can be between $200 and $1,000. Loan terms are between one and six months.

Avoid traditional payday loansPayday loans, also known as “cash advances,” have a reputation for taking advantage of consumers who may be living paycheck-to-paycheck. Payday loans are legal in 32 states, and the rules about interest rates and fees vary depending on where you live.

According to the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau, 4 out of 5 payday loan borrowers either roll their loan over into a new payday loan, incurring even more interest and fees, or default on the loan. This is known as a debt trap, and it could destroy access to crucial banking services in the future for borrowers by triggering a cascade of penalties and fees.

With a personal loan, you’ll make a set number of payments that remain the same from month-to-month. The interest rate is fixed throughout the life of the loan. Typically, loan terms range from 12 months to seven years. With a traditional loan, you won’t have to provide collateral to secure it.

You can use a personal loan for a variety of reasons. But the key to using a personal loan responsibly is to only borrow what you need and to take time to compare lenders. For example, you may get prequalified on a personal loan through different lenders to see the rates and terms you may qualify for.

With a traditional personal loan, your credit will be taken into account to determine your eligibility once you apply. A higher credit score can help you get approved for a larger loan with a lower interest rate. Check with your bank or credit union, as well. They may be able to offer a short-term loan with good terms that will help you pay your car repair bill.

If you aren’t aware of what’s in your credit file, visit AnnualCreditReport.com. You have the legal right to see your credit reports from Experian, Equifax and TransUnion once every 12 months.

Potential lenders also consider your ability to pay back a personal loan. They’ll use your income to calculate your debt-to-income (DTI) ratio by taking your total monthly debt obligations divided by your gross monthly income. While acceptable DTI levels vary depending on the lender, 35% or less is ideal.

If you decide to pay for important repairs to your car’s electrical system with a personal loan, it’s crucial to make sure the monthly payments fit into your budget. Making every payment on time could help boost your credit score, making it easier to access credit products in the future.

With an introductory 0% interest credit card you can enjoy interest-free financing for a limited time to pay unexpected car electrical repair costs. The offer is generally for a promotional period of six to 21 months. If you can pay off the balance during that time, you’ll save money on interest charges.

Good credit is a requirement for approval with companies offering introductory 0% interest credit cards. When shopping for an intro zero-interest credit card, look for one that doesn’t have an annual fee or a penalty rate.

The best way to minimize repair charges is to stick with the manufacturer-recommended maintenance schedule and work with a mechanic that can help you stay aware of emerging problems.Don’t assume that your vehicle’s factory warranty or extended warranty will pay for electrical system repairs. Get into the habit of setting aside a small amount of money each month to help cover unexpected car problems if you don’t already.

When it’s time to make repairs to your car’s electrical system, weigh your options for financing the bill carefully. Payday loans are the most expensive and have the worst reputation for taking advantage of people who are already in a difficult situation. Credit cards with an introductory 0% interest are a good option if you have the means and discipline to pay them off within the introductory period. With set monthly payments and quick access to money upon approval, getting a personal loan is a smart choice for people who can’t pay for unexpected electrical car repairs out of their savings.

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How to Diagnose Car Electrical Problems by Tracing Voltage

First rule of working on an automotive electrical system: It's only 12 volts, and you can't get a shock. (Well, except maybe from the spark plug wiring, but I digress.) Second rule: The second Gear-obsessed editors choose every product we review. We may earn commission if you buy from a link. How we test gear.The road ahead looks like a black hole. It's so dark and so dreary, even the bravest Saturday mechanic would prefer to be off the highway and safe at home. Unfortunately, you're still hours away from your destination. You can't see anything except the small puddle of light cast by your headlights. And that puddle seems to be getting smaller. And yellower. A quick stop at the convenience store for gasoline and a quart of carrot juice reveals the cause--one of your headlights is as yellow as Satan's toenails.

You've got a voltage drop.Electricity shouldn't be daunting, especially when it comes to automotive wiring. It's simple direct current (DC), and it doesn't pack enough punch to make your toes tingle--even if you're standing in wet sneakers. I will grant you, working on an electrical system just isn't as intuitive as a mechanical system is. Imagine the linkage to a carburetor. Remember carburetors? Carbs are easy to understand. If one end of the throttle linkage moves when you wiggle it and the other end doesn't, it's broken. If you wiggle one end and neither end moves, it's stuck.

And if it's hard to move, it needs to be oiled. Electrical-system diagnosis, on the other hand, is one step removed--you can't see the electricity in the wire like you can see the linkage wiggling. Sure, you can do simple electrical diagnosis with nothing more than a trouble light. I have a couple of trouble lights, and I use them all the time. But diagnosing anything more complicated than a burned-out bulb calls for bigger guns. You need a voltmeter. Or, more technically, a digital multimeter, or DMM. You can get a decent one for about the price of a couple of pepperoni pizzas.

Back to your dim headlight. There's resistance in the circuit, reducing the voltage available at the headlamp. You can use the DMM's ohmmeter scale to find the extra resistance, right?Wrong. We're chasing very small resistances, often smaller than a single ohm. The resistance (ohm) scale on your DMM probably bottoms out at 200 ohms, making measurement of single-digit values tricky. Instead, use the voltage scale, which on most DMMs is accurate down to several millivolts. Let's dig in.

Start by turning on the offending circuit--in this case the headlight low beams. Now we'll measure the battery voltage. We need to know the exact number you see when metering across the battery posts. And I mean the lead posts themselves, not the clamps. It should be around 12.5 to 12.8 volts if the battery is fully charged.

Back-probe the connector on the dim headlight. The black lead on your DMM should go to a good ground--preferably to the battery negative post. The voltage you meter at the low-beam lug, as it turns out, is about 11 volts. That's lower than our system voltage at about 12.5--but not low enough to explain the severe dim-out. Now probe the ground lug at the bulb connector. Surprise! The meter reads nearly 4 volts--it should read zero. This indicates a resistance in the ground side of the wiring, leaving only 7 volts for the filament.

First lesson: Electricity always runs in a circle, and the ground side is just as important as the hot side.Second lesson: Use a little systems analysis. Only one headlamp is dim, so you can skip troubleshooting any part of the circuit that's shared with the one that's working.As you're metering the ground side, suddenly the voltage on the meter jumps up. And it doesn't jump to the 11 volts we saw before--it jumps right up to 12.5 volts, exactly what we can meter at the battery. The bulb goes out at the same instant. Now what?

You're metering full battery voltage. That means there is lack of continuity--an "open" in the circuit somewhere between the DMM positive probe and the battery ground. If the open resulted from a burned-out filament or a broken wire on the hot side, you'd see zero volts. The open is on the ground side for sure. What used to be a resistance, around 1 ohm, in that ground circuit has suddenly become an open, with essentially infinite resistance. Culprit? It's a broken ground wire, probably caused by someone poking a pointy test light or meter probe through the wiring to examine a problem years ago. The hole in the insulation has admitted water to the wire inside, turning it into green, high-resistance corrosion--eventually causing the wire to fail.

Which brings up another lesson: Never poke a hole into a wire to check a circuit. So, you replace the wire. Problem solved; at least until you go around front to check the lights. Now they're both the same color. Perking up the dim one suddenly makes you realize they're both less than brilliant--which is what I'd expect when I meter 11 volts at the bulb socket instead of the 14 I'd expect when the engine is running. There's still a resistance in the circuit, but this time it's between the battery and bulb. Back to the DMM.

Meter between the battery positive post and the clamp. You should see very little voltage there. With the lights up, the total draw on the battery is 15 amps or more. Any resistance between the clamp and the post will cause a measurable voltage drop. It shouldn't be more than a few millivolts. Chase the circuit toward the lamp, one metal-to-metal junction at a time. Probing between the input and output of the headlamp relay shows a drop of nearly a volt. Popping in a new relay puts that reading down to a few millivolts. And both headlamps are blazing.

Problem solved.Your 55-watt headlamp bulb draws 4 to 5 amps from the car's electrical system, and we can calculate that it has a resistance of about 3 ohms. Our cheapo trouble light has a resistance of 10 to 12 ohms, meaning that if we poke the trouble-light probe into a circuit, it becomes part of the circuit, changing the values we're trying to diagnose. Our DMM has a resistance of over 10 million ohms, eliminating the possibility that attaching the meter probe will change the voltage in a circuit. It's important to do this testing with the circuit turned on and operating when you're troubleshooting. Imagine that our corroded wire was in the positive side of the headlamp circuit, not the ground side. And the battery is a little low, so you just pop the connector off the bulb and meter the socket. If the wiring is fine, you'll see full system voltage on the meter, so everything must be peachy, right? But there's our damaged wire in there, with an internal resistance of an ohm or three. You'd expect the meter to show reduced voltage, and you'd be wrong. It's the current flowing in the circuit that produces the voltage drop. The DMM, with its megohm impedance, draws no current--and you'll read full system voltage until the circuit is loaded down.

I'm not happy with more than a few hundred millivolts of drop across any connector. The total drop in any circuit shouldn't be more than 1 volt, whether it's a dome light drawing 500 milliamps or a starter drawing 200.

1 Blade-type fuses have test points on top, a good place to meter the voltage in a circuit. Try this: Meter both test points on the millivolt range, and read the voltage drop across the fuse. No voltage? Then there's no current flowing.

2 Never insert the meter probe into the female end of a wiring connector. It's easy to damage the contacts. Instead, probe from the back of the connector, where the wires are inserted. It's called back-probing.

3 Chase voltage drops along the circuit path from hot to ground, as in this trailer connector. Here we're looking for voltage drop between the plug and the wire to the running lights.

First rule of working on an automotive electrical system: It's only 12 volts, and you can't get a shock. (Well, except maybe from the spark plug wiring, but I digress.) Second rule: The second rule isn't just a rule--it's the law. Specifically, Ohm's law. Don't freak; I'll go slow with the math.

I=the current flowing in a circuitV=the voltage that pushes the currentR=the resistance in the circuitAn example: A headlamp low beam normally draws 4 amps or so when it's switched on. (That's the current.) The voltage is around 13 to 14 volts when the engine is running. So,4=14/R, where R is the resistance of the filament in the bulb. Solving for R, we get 14/4, or just under 3.5 ohms. Imagine that one headlamp is kinda yellow compared to the other side. We measure the voltage at the lamp socket, and it's only around 7 volts, explaining the dimness. I'll leave the math for homework, but that means there's another 3.5 ohms of resistance somewhere between the battery and the headlamp. The circuit, with its extra resistance, will now have a total resistance of 7 ohms for a current draw of 2 amps, and it's our mission to find that resistance and repair it. Another example: The starter motor draws 200 amps (roughly) when the engine is cranking, usually when the battery voltage is only about 10 volts. So,

Similarly, if we know that an electrical device has a resistance, we can figure out how much current it will draw. Installing a new set of eight clearance lights on the travel trailer? Measure one bulb with a really good ohmmeter, and it measures 12 ohms. You can figure on roughly 1 amp of current. Multiply that by 8 running lights--your new lights will draw a total of 8 amps. Add in the running lamps and the 10-amp fuse on that circuit may not be enough.

Trust me, these numbers will always work out correctly. If they don't, you're missing something.

Fixing an Electrical Short Circuit in your Car or Truck

Open the wiring harness and locate the chafed or shorted wires and repair them with electrical tape. Reinstall the fuse and test the circuit. Check out more do-it-yourself car maintenance tips ! Give a gift >Home Cars MaintenanceAutomotive electrical problems might seem insurmountable, but they’re not. All you have to do is locate where the current stops flowing, which is easy with today’s tools. Here’s how to fix automotive electrical short circuits.

Finding and repairing a short circuit in your car or truck’s electrical system can cost $200 and up at a shop. But if you spend $15 on a pro-grade shop manual and $40 on specialty tools, you can track it down yourself in an afternoon.

Tools required:Lineman’s pliersSoldering ironUtility knifeShort circuit detectorFuse socket connector kitShop manual for the year, make and model of your car or truckWire crimperMaterials required:Butt connectorsElectrical moisture sealantElectrical tapeFluxSolderYank the fuse for the shorted circuit and install a fuse adapter. Then connect the circuit breaker leads to the adapter.Find the short with the meter by sliding the meter along the wiring harness. Watch the needle swing back and forth. When it stops swinging, you’re at the short. Open the wiring harness and locate the chafed or shorted wires and repair them with electrical tape. Reinstall the fuse and test the circuit.

Check out more do-it-yourself car maintenance tips!Explore Reader’s Digest Cars. Our BrandsWe are no longer supporting IE (Internet Explorer) as we strive to provide site experiences for browsers that support new web standards and security practices.We recommend our users to update the browser.

Car Electrical Repair, Diagnostic & Inspection Near Me

Diagnosing Car Electrical Problems & Car Electrical Repairs. An experienced technician will run a specialized diagnostic on your vehicle's electrical system to determine the cause for malfunction and complete the necessary repair. A technician’s inspection of the car's battery, case condition, and integrity can verify if it can produce ample power. If the battery's integrity has been compromised it should be replaced. We are committed to keeping you safe and on the road.Vehicle drop off encouraged. After Hours key drop off available at participating locations.Please contact your local Meineke for information on enhanced safety measures.Sign in to your Meineke Rewards account.No Account?First, find a center near youPhone:Call to Scheduleoil changeExhaust & Mufflersbrake repairtires and wheelsA/C servicesee all servicesMeineke Credit CardBlog & NewsCareers at MeinekeFleet ServicesMeineke RewardsLearn More About MeinekeFranchise OpportunitiesWe're proud of the training, support and innovation we offer our 800 franchisees. Find out how you can join us today.Franchise OpportunitiesBecome a Meineke Franchisee: a great investment with a dynamic company and proven growth.Resales OpportunitiesOwn a Meineke in an established location, with proven operations and at a lower entry cost.My Meineke: Not SetJump To:Your car's electrical system is a complex network that requires specialized diagnostic equipment for comprehensive servicing. A technician can access your vehicle's data with diagnostics and identify the exact cause of any electrical problems.

The electrical system is fundamental to a vehicle's operation and gives power to an array of parts including the alternator, starter, and battery. Each vehicle's electrical system has its own nuances based on its age, make and model.

Some newer vehicles have a complex computer system that interacts with vehicle functions including sensors, brakes, steering, and more.Troubleshooting these electrical components often requires the use of an advanced diagnostic technology that is only available through an experienced technician.There are a number of red flags that indicate the need for a servicing of your vehicle's electrical system. If you try to start your car and you hear grinding, clicking, or no sound, it’s time to call a technician and schedule an appointment.

The average car battery lasts between three and six years. Therefore, you should replace your car's battery after four years to be on the safe side.If your vehicle's dashboard lights do not illuminate properly, the electrical system is likely malfunctioning. Another indicator of a potential electrical system issue is if your vehicle’s headlights darken as you drive at low speeds.

An experienced technician will run a specialized diagnostic on your vehicle's electrical system to determine the cause for malfunction and complete the necessary repair.A technician’s inspection of the car's battery, case condition, and integrity can verify if it can produce ample power.If the battery's integrity has been compromised it should be replaced. Make sure your battery, adjoining cables, and your sensitive electronics are all working properly by having a technician service your car’s electrical system.

Yes. That’s because alternators tend to fail more often under high electrical demands on charging systems. A failing starter may not crank the engine or it may do so too slowly.

If you hear a noise when turning the key or pressing the start engine button, then your car’s electrical parts might be going bad. The clicking usually indicates a discharged or failing battery. If you hear grinding, then it might be a failing starter or a bad flywheel ring gear.

If you are experiencing intermittent issues when starting your car, then the problem may lie with the starter relay. Excessive heat and dirt can damage the starter relay so that it fails to send power to the starter every time. It’s important to have your electrical system checked out though to properly determine what’s causing the intermittent contact.

The ignition switch activates the main electrical system of your vehicle. If it fails, not only will your car not start, but the bad ignition switch becomes a parasitic load, which can cause your battery to drain.

Fuses are designed to protect electrical circuits. If a fuse is blown, that’s a sign indicating one of the electrical devices in your car or the wiring is attracting or carrying too much current. Replacing the fuse without identifying the underlying problem is not a long term solution, as the fuse will continue to blow until the underlying problem is fixed.

The life of your battery is most commonly affected by temperatures, such as extreme heat or freezing temperatures, and the length of your trips. Driving short trips on a regular basis won’t allow your car’s battery to fully recharge and overall, that will shorten its life expectancy. High temperatures also affect the alternator, and in general all electrical equipment, because heat increases electrical resistance.

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Your Car's Electrical System | Completely Firestone

If one of these parts is not working properly, your car won’t start or run correctly. Our expert technicians can perform an electrical system check to ensure everything is working properly. It pinpoints any problems that may occur with your electrical system. If our technicians find a problem, they’ll let you know what they can do to fix it.
how to fix car electrical system

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